AGM at Epping and Excursion to Theydon Garnon and Theydon Mount, 16 August 1889.

An Essex Archaeological Society Excursion – Theydon Garnon, Hill Hall, Theydon Mount and Albyns

Source: Transactions of the Essex Archaeological Society, New Series, Volume 4 (1889), pp. 52–54.

The Excursion Begins

Thanks having been unanimously accorded for these communications, the meeting adjourned for luncheon at the "Cock" Hotel, Epping, after which the excursion was made to Theydon Garnon Church.

Theydon Garnon Church

The chief feature of the church is the massive brick tower, clothed almost entirely with ivy.

On the south side is inserted in the brickwork a stone six feet in length and four feet high, on which is the following inscription in old English characters:

[Crosby arms]

.. .. .... ..... .. .. .. .. syr iohncrosbe knyght,
late alderman, and grocer of london and a
....... . of dame anne and annes his wyfs of
whos godys was gevyn li. toward
the makyng of thys stepyll mvxx

[Grocers' arms]

On one side of the inscription are the arms of Crosby, a chevron charged with seven escallops between three rams trippant, and on the other the arms of the Grocers' Company, argent, a chevron gules between nine cloves sable.

The inscription obviously commenced with "Pray for the souls of," and probably concluded with "upon whose soul God have mercy. Amen," but the words have been carefully erased.

The time of the death of Sir John Crosbie was 1475, but the date upon the stone being 1520, it is concluded that the building was then finished, the money having been collected for it seven years, as Morant observes.

The Debate Over the Ivy-Covered Tower

An architectural description of the structure was given by Mr. C. F. Hayward, F.R.I.B.A., who said the steeple was a very good example of brickwork, and it was chiefly valuable as an example of brickwork.

He suggested that the ivy which clothed it should be cut down, as the tower was more important than the ivy.

It was a fatal mistake to allow ivy to grow over a fine piece of architecture, as it was sure in time to pull it down, and he hoped some notice would be taken of this.

Mr. Kemsley, who had been churchwarden for 27 years, said they felt somewhat tender about removing the drapery of greenery.

Mr. Hayward replied that he could understand this, but urged that they should sacrifice the ivy and save the tower for future generations.

Mr. Hayward commented upon the features of the building, and upon the monuments and brasses, and said that the present church was no doubt built upon an earlier foundation.

Hill Hall – The Smyth Family Residence

From this church the party drove direct to Hill Hall, the Essex seat of Sir William Bowyer Smijth, Bart., but then occupied by Mrs. Cleland, by whose kind permission the mansion was visited.

Having assembled in the hall, the President said that Mr. Chancellor had kindly sent him some proofs from his forthcoming work on the architectural and structural monuments in the Essex churches, descriptive of the tombs in Theydon Mount Church.

Mr. Chancellor had also appended a short sketch of the history of the Smijth family and of Hill Hall, which he read to the meeting, reserving Mr. Chancellor's description of the monuments until arrival at the church.

The History of the Smyth Family

The family is said to have descended from Sir Roger de Clarendun, natural son of Edward the Black Prince.

The first member connected with Essex was Sir John Smyth, who lived at Saffron Walden, and was sheriff of the county in 1532 and 1539.

Hill Hall came to his son, Sir Thomas Smyth, upon his marriage with the widow of Sir John Hampden, and it had since been the seat of the Smyths.

Sir Thomas was born in 1512, and became one of the most famous men of his age as a scholar and statesman.

A portrait of him in the hall, by Titian, bears the legend "love and fear," which were the ruling motives of his life.

The Architecture and Contents of Hill Hall

In 1548 Hill Hall was rebuilt in red brick with mullioned windows and gables, but it has undergone so many alterations that it was difficult to say how much of the old mansion remains.

The conversion of the mansion from a Tudor to a classical building took place probably between 1713 and 1719.

Mr. Hayward then made some interesting impromptu observations upon the building.

Among the many paintings in the hall are portraits of Henry VIII and Queen Elizabeth, while the objects of interest include Queen Elizabeth's saddle and chair brought from Horham Hall.

In the drawing and dining rooms and the library are many valuable paintings, and a rare collection of old china.

Theydon Mount Church

A short walk through one of the avenues in the park brought the party to the church of Theydon Mount.

The old church was struck by lightning and burnt down in 1611 and was rebuilt in 1621.

The chief features of interest in the edifice are the fine altar tombs of departed members of the Smyth family in the chancel, and interesting descriptions of these were given by the President, who said he was indebted to Mr. Chancellor and the Rev. L. N. Prance for the particulars.

The tomb of the famous Sir Thomas Smyth is a very handsome one.

Upon the front of the tomb of Sir William, who rebuilt the church, and who died in 1626, are the kneeling figures of his three sons and four daughters.

Above the tomb of Sir Thomas, brother of this Sir William, hang a surcoat, helmet and shield.

Funeral Wreaths and Historic Church Customs

From the roof of the nave hang some decayed wreaths of flowers, bearing several pairs of mittens.

These wreaths, the President said, had probably been placed upon the coffins of some of the Smyth family, and the mittens doubtless belonged to lady members of the family who had been buried.

The President also called attention to the pew set apart for the churchwardens and bearing their wands of office, and said the only other similar instance he knew of in Essex was at Hatfield Broad Oak.

Albyns – Stapleford Abbotts

Another delightful drive brought the party to Albyns, the seat of Sir William Abdy, Bart., but then occupied by Mr. Humphrey.

The party were very cordially welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Humphrey, and the tea and light refreshments so kindly and thoughtfully provided proved most acceptable.

Albyns is a fine old mansion, and proved one of the most interesting places visited.

The Architecture of Albyns

It has been said that it was built by Inigo Jones, but this is doubted, and Mr. Hayward said that he was unable to find any trace of the famous architect about the building.

In this Mr. G. E. Pritchett, F.S.A., who also made some remarks upon the structure, entirely concurred.

That Inigo Jones was the architect is also denied by Walpole.

The great features of the mansion are the elaborately worked ceilings, the fine oak panelling, and the massive and beautifully carved oak mantelpieces.

An inscription in one of the bedrooms announces that:

"This house was repaired, sashed, and beautified by Sir John Abdy, Bart., 1754."

But, as the Rev. T. Cochrane pointed out, the beautifying appears to have consisted in hiding the rich oak panelling of this particular room with a coating of paint.

The oak room affords a splendid example of panelling.

The Parish Records of Stapleford Abbotts

While the party were in the spacious long room, which is 99 feet in length, Mr. Cochrane made some observations upon the parish.

He said the old register commenced in 1654, and the register was continued without any break from that day.

There were many interesting entries, examples of which he read.

Bishop Godfrey Goodman's Account of the Parish

Mr. Cochrane also read a curious letter by Godfrey Goodman, Bishop of Gloucester, who was rector of the parish from 1606 to 1620.

According to this letter, the parish of Stapleford Abbotts was a perfect Arcadia while Godfrey Goodman was in charge of it — free alike from crime, poverty and every form of ill or evil.

Thomas Day – Author of Sandford and Merton

The President called attention to the fact that Day, the author of Sandford and Merton, lived for some years at High House Farm in that parish, and he (Mr. Lowndes) had many of Day's letters dated from Stapleford Abbotts.

Day thought he could train people, and he tried the experiment with two young ladies, and brought one of them up with the view of making her his wife, but she declined to marry him.

He then gave up the training of ladies for the training of colts, but the colts behaved worse than the ladies, for one threw him, and he was killed.

Conclusion of the Excursion

The visitors would have been glad of a longer stay in this interesting house, but trains had to be caught at Theydon Bois and Epping.

With hearty thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Humphrey and the members of their family for their cordial welcome and hospitality, the party departed; another drive along pleasant country roads bringing a most interesting day to a close.

Source and References

• Transactions of the Essex Archaeological Society, New Series, Volume 4 (1889), pp. 52–54.
• Morant, The History and Antiquities of the County of Essex, cited in relation to the construction of the tower at Theydon Garnon.
• Mr. Chancellor, forthcoming work on the architectural and structural monuments in Essex churches, as referred to in the original account.