Quarterly Meeting and Excursion of the Essex Archaeological Society, Thursday, 7 July 1927, to Writtle, Greensted and Theydon Mount

Although rain fell heavily early in the afternoon, a fair amount of sunshine favoured this excursion, which was attended by upwards of 250 members and friends.

Motor-coaches left Chelmsford Station at 11 a.m. and proceeded to Writtle Church, where the party was welcomed by the Vicar, Rev. J. H. Upton. The building, which is spacious and dignified, dates from about 1230, but very little work of this period remains, and its later architectural history is somewhat involved.

Greensted Church

Greensted Church was next visited. This primitive little sanctuary is the sole surviving example in this country of a pre-Conquest timber church of a type which must have been common at the period.

“There is every probability”, according to the Historic Monuments Commission, that the nave “is the chapel built in 1013 to receive the remains of St. Edmund on their journey from London to Suffolk, and though drastically restored, this almost unique survival of a building of split oak logs of so early a date must always render it a structure of extreme interest.”

With a population of only 86, the burden of upkeep fell heavily on so small a parish, and under the present rector, the Rev. R. W. Doyle, visitors were asked to pay a fee of 6d. per head. As the Hon. Secretary objected on principle to a fixed charge, he was kindly allowed to invite members to contribute a voluntary offering instead.

Over £5 10s. was raised in this way, and the rector later wrote to express his warm thanks “for this very kind and generous contribution towards the upkeep and repair of the church”.

Luncheon was afterwards taken in the grounds of the adjoining Hall, by kind permission of Mr. and Mrs. Howel Price, who, although away from home, had made detailed arrangements for the reception of their visitors.

At a subsequent meeting 21 new members were elected. The Hon. Secretary also spoke at some length about the rules regulating excursions, and emphasised the fact that owing to the continued growth of the Society it would be absolutely necessary in the future for all such rules to be strictly adhered to.

Theydon Mount Church

A hearty vote of thanks having been accorded Mr. and Mrs. Price, the party left for Theydon Mount Church, which stands, embowered in trees, within the park of Hill Hall.

This church is said to have been struck by lightning in 1611, and was completely rebuilt by Sir William Smyth between the years 1611 and 1614. It is an “unusually complete example of the period, with mixed Gothic and Classic detail”, and contains a remarkable series of alabaster monuments, with effigies, to the Smyth family.

The earliest of these tombs commemorates Sir Thomas Smyth, 1577, who was Secretary of State to Edward VI and Queen Elizabeth, four times Ambassador to the Court of France, Chancellor of the Garter, Provost of Eton, and held several other offices. He was born at Saffron Walden.

On the north side of the nave, immediately in front of the combined pulpit and reading desk, is a pew with “Parish Officers’ Pew” inscribed on the door. At the north-west and south-west angles are brass standards surmounted by a mitre and a crown respectively.

It presumably dates from 1837, when the church was repaired and a west gallery, now removed, was erected for the use of the Hill Hall servants and musicians.

Hanging from the nave roof are two eighteenth-century maidens’ garlands, fragile relics of an old-time custom:

To her sweet memory flow’ry garlands strung
On her now empty seat aloft were hung.
— Gay

An account of these garlands, or crowns, one of which has a glove or gloves hanging inside, will be found in The Essex Naturalist, vol. vi., pp. 99 and 105.

Hill Hall

On leaving, members made their way to Hill Hall, where they were received by Sir Robert A. Hudson, G.B.E., and Lady Hudson, G.B.E. After listening to a description of the building, they were entertained to tea in a marquee erected on the lawn.

This house is beautifully situated in one of the most picturesque parts of the county and, to quote the early historian Holman, has “a very fair and delightful prospect all ways”. Parties were subsequently conducted over the ground floor by the host and hostess.

Hill Hall is said to have been built by Sir Thomas Smyth, who died in 1577, and the main quadrangle was probably set out at this period. Additions were made in the seventeenth century, and early in the eighteenth century the east front was rebuilt and the upper part of the north front remodelled.

In the great hall there is an original fireplace of brick, and on it are painted the quartered arms of Smyth and Charnock, the latter arms referring to Sir Thomas’s mother, Agnes Charnock. These quarterings are repeated, and in one instance they impale those of Wilford, Sir Thomas having married as his second wife Philippa, daughter of John Wilford and widow of Sir John Hampden, with whom he acquired Hill Hall.

In the pediment is a bust thought to be of Sir Thomas Smyth. A contemporary portrait of him, said to be by Holbein, hangs on the opposite wall, while another portrait attributed to Titian is to be seen in the library.

The eighteenth-century Chinese wallpapers, with their soft colourings, are also an attractive feature, though, with one or two exceptions, they did not originally belong to the house, but were collected and introduced some years ago by Mrs. Charles Hunter.

A set of three tapestries hanging in the music room and great hall, purchased only a week or so prior to the Society’s visit, were also noteworthy. They were woven in Brussels circa 1680 by H. Reydams, and all bear his signature and the Brussels mark. For a very long time they were at Coombe Abbey, Warwickshire, the property of Lord Craven’s family.

It is remarkable that this house should have remained in possession of the descendants of Sir Thomas Smyth’s brother until 1925, when it was purchased by Sir Robert Hudson. Lieut.-Col. Sir Alfred John Bowyer-Smyth, the 13th baronet, had only recently died on 4 August.

An earlier member of the family is referred to in the Domestic State Papers of 1624, in a letter to Lord Denny, Sir Francis Barrington and Sir Thomas Fanshawe, requiring them to examine Sir William Smithe junior and others concerning a riotous assembly of armed men held near the house of his father, Sir William Smithe of Hill Hall, Essex, either to destroy the King’s game or to execute some other unlawful action.

Illustrated articles on Hill Hall by Mr. H. Avray Tipping appeared in Country Life on 5, 12 and 19 May 1917, but this house, with its memories of a notable statesman and scholar, and one who is among the greatest of Essex worthies, deserves a separate monograph.

The Hill Hall Bell

Canon Galpin was able to throw light on the history of the bell which stands in an oak frame on the western lawn, where it was placed to serve as a fire-bell. It was formerly the clock-bell of Hatfield Broad Oak Church, and was purchased by the late Mr. Charles Hunter about 25 years earlier.

It is listed in Church Bells of Essex under Hatfield and bears the following inscription:

PATRICK & OSBORN OF LONDON FOUNDERS 1783.

Although Sir Robert Hudson was convalescing after a serious illness, both he and Lady Hudson did not spare themselves to make the visit a delight, and on the motion of the President a hearty vote of thanks was accorded them for their kindly welcome and hospitality.

It should be added that all the buildings visited were described by that constant friend of the Society, Mr. Wykeham Chancellor, F.R.I.B.A.

Sir Thomas Smith at Cambridge

The following note was