Stanford Rivers by H. M. Scott (Part 4): Life in the Village Past and Present (1973)

LIFE IN THE VILLAGE

- Past and Present

APART FROM the history of the Manors I think it may interest present day readers, as well as future generations, if I place on record the following details which have been compiled from notes and letters received from past and present residents and newspaper cuttings, all of which I have pieced together to give a picture of life in the village.

I will try to describe the village as it might be seen by a visitor today.

Entering the south eastern boundary of the Manor from the London road (A113) we are struck by the truly rural aspect, we see a few scattered cottages, several old and lovely farmhouses and a particularly lovely view — on the right over the valley of the river Roding. On the left we pass Murrells Farm (the site of the former Mansion of Bellhouse) and enter the Little End section of the village. Here we find a mixture of old and new homes dominated by the structure of the old Ongar Union building — now the factory of Piggott Bros. Ltd. We see the one and only tiny village shop and Post Office and enter farmland once more, passing Bridge Farm on the left, and in moments we arrive at the boundary of the Manor at Marden Ash. Just before this, if we were to turn down a lane to the right, we would find the ancient manor house of the former sub-manor of Littlebury and its Mill.

Returning along the London road, we turn right (i.e. N.W.) by the site of the former Congregational Chapel, up Church Lane and pass the present Rectory (a grey brick structure) and then farmland on both sides. We soon see a rather lovely view of St. Margaret’s Church and Stanford Hall Farm ahead. Next to the isolated ancient church, we will see the delapidated Stanford Hall surrounded by farmland. The road here which leads off to the right (known as Mutton Row) is bordered on both sides by farmland and contains a few cottages — a short lane on the left leads us to the charmingly situated Brook Cottage. If we continue up Mutton Row we see the ancient Newhouse Farmhouse (on the left) and on the right, the lovely old house of Clarks Farm and finally reach the “Drill House” P.H. at the border of the Parish of Greensted. In this area the Parish and Manorial boundaries become confusing to the uninitiated, so opposite the Drill House we will turn left, passing Widows Farmhouse on the right and see — on our left — the old and lovely farmhouses of Burrows and Colemans and the ancient cottages at Clatterford End. Continuing, we will shortly notice the newly erected Village Hall and arrive at the Toot Hill section of the parish. Turning to the right here, we shortly return to farmland and, with the aid of a map, find Ongar Park which extends to the boundary of the Parish of North Weald. This area is now spoilt by unsightly Radio Masts and we can only imagine how glorious it must have been in the days when Ongar Park Hall was occupied by its fabulously wealthy owners in the 18th century. Nearby, we will find Cold Hall which shows evidence of its past glory and beauty. Returning to Toot Hill, we cannot fail to notice the farmhouses “Wealds” and “Steers” and the “Green Man” P.H. If we continue straight on we will pass Bugle Cottage, Stewarts Farmhouse and the pretty old farmhouse “Blakes” and see the site of the former Parish School which is now occupied by a gipsy encampment. We will notice the ruins of the former school drinking fountain on the edge of the road.

We should now retrace our steps towards Toot Hill and arriving at the small triangle of common land “Stewarts Cross” we turn left down Epping road — the first portion of which is fairly well populated. On the left we will see Freemans Farm and nearly opposite the old farmhouse of “Does”. Opposite Does, we turn left down a narrow lane known as “Nickerlands” and bordered by woodland which leads down to Berwick Lane and finally to the main London road at the farmhouse of “Lawns”. For the sake of brevity I have not included certain side roads, Blake Hall road and railway station, part of Berwick lane and its lovely Berwick farmhouse, etc.

Stanford Rivers, to those who do not know its past history and its present charming and interesting residents would seem to be a dull village. A passer-by might get this impression and this is due to the fact that it has no central focal point. The majority of villages are centred around a church, shop or shops, village hall, public house, and sometimes a common or playing field. Here we find a very scattered population, divided into two distinct areas and residents who must go to the nearest towns for the main shopping requirements and entertainments. (Chipping Ongar is two miles from Little End). Thanks to the untiring endeavours of a number of kindly residents, great efforts are made to entertain and occupy the spare time of the young and old. The Women’s Institute, the Horticultural Society, the Cricket Club, the Brownie Pack, and the Church are just a few which play their part. The Planning Authorities are strict, and building permission is hard to obtain, so we have every hope that the area will retain its present appearance for many years to come.

Further sundry notes — Toot Hill now has no shop, no post office, no train service after 9.30 p.m., and a very limited Omnibus Service. The nearest golf course is at Theydon Mount. Good angling is to be found on the river Roding.

There is no gas supply. Electricity was first supplied to the Parish in 1951. Parts of the area had water mains earlier in the present century, but the supplies were increased in 1949.

In August 1973, local residents complained that improvements were being made to major roads but insufficient attention was being given to the maintenance of certain minor ones. The Village can boast of one garage for petrol supplies and repairs — this is situated on the main road at Little End.

1973. The Village continues its comparatively uneventful rural life. The passing motorist sees little of interest and is naturally quite unaware of the many interesting features revealed by my story of its past. The farmers continue their valuable work — the old houses (with the exception of Stanford Hall) are well preserved and internally tastefully modernised. A few new houses and bungalows have recently been added but generally the original atmosphere still prevails.

The Rector and the leading families — the Millbanks, the Triggs, the Hinmans, the Griggs and the Pearls (to name just a few), do their best to cement the village population, both old and young, together. It is certain that the new Village Hall at Toot Hill will help to foster community life.

The telephone service came to the parish in 1926.

Brick making was carried out for many years in the area near where North Weald Station now stands and records show that the works existed in 1871.

Earlier days in the Village

So much can be gleaned from the other sections of this Work that I feel I need not elaborate too much on this subject.

The fact that a Roman road passed through Ongar Park and the recent discovery of Roman Pottery at Traceys Farm proves that there were some Roman settlers in the area.

In the Middle Ages the local occupation was mainly agriculture — the inhabitants mostly grew their own produce, publicans brewed their own beer, the blacksmith and the shoemaker had their smallholdings and naturally the clergyman had his Glebe. A certain amount of spinning was carried on. Any necessities not produced at home could easily be obtained from the nearby market at Chipping Ongar, so a shopkeeper could hardly expect to make a livelihood.

The villagers looked to the Lord of the Manor for guidance and help and were to a certain extent, dependant on his whims — although from the 11th to the 16th century, the lords of the Capital Manor do not appear to have actually resided in the Manor.

The year 1700 saw the development of dairy farming and by 1750 quite large farms, such as Burrows, with 200 acres were devoted to it.

In 1708 the average weekly wage of a farm labourer was 6/- but by 1750 this rose to 7/- and in some cases to as much as 8/-. Building workers, Carpenters and Plumbers commanded wages of 10/- to 13/- and this was sometimes augmented with a daily pint of strong beer. In the 18th century the villagers must have looked to their Lord of the Manor at his Mansion of Bellhouse for any sight of the “highlife” and in the 19th and early part of the 20th centuries, to the Smith family at nearby “Suttons”. The local “gentry” must have enlivened the village by the Hunting, Shooting and Skating activities.

Within living memory (this was written in 1970) a Village Fair was held annually on June 1st on “Sharpe’s Green” (probably Stewarts Cross”) and there were swings, roundabouts and other amusements.

A further idea of life in the Village during the early part of the present century can be gained by perusing the following extracts from the Epping Gazette, from a letter sent me by the late Mr. Edwin Bass, notes sent by Mrs. Alice Carter, Mrs. Nesta Ferguson and Mr. Harry Witham.

The Epping Gazette. 26/1/1901. “An enjoyable Hunt took place. Amongst those seen were — Sir Charles Smith, Bart., Mr. D. Smith, and Mr. Harry Sworder. Hospitality was given by Sir Charles. A March Hare was hunted near Shonks Mill and towards Stanford Rivers and over the stiff bank by the (old) Rectory. It was lost in Ice House Wood.”

“Sir Charles Smith gave his Rent Audit Dinner at the King’s Head, Ongar, on the 19th. Mr. J. Freeman occupied the Vice-Chair.”

“Major Capel Cure’s Rent Audit Dinner was held at the King’s Head, Ongar, on the 8th. Mr. J. Millbank presided.”

16/8/1902. “The Coronation celebrations took place on August 9th. At 3 p.m. a service was held in the Church. Sports took place after tea. Medals were distributed by Sir Charles and Lady Cunliffe Smith. The Committee included the Rector, Messrs. H. Millbank, Mugleston, Sawkins, Harold Thomas, and Lockyer.”

8/11/1902. “An ancient landmark was removed last week when a tree opposite the White Bear was felled. It is believed to be 400 years old, and being hollow inside, was a favourite place for use as a backing for people desirous of being photographed.”

22/11/1902. “A Concert held in the Schoolroom in aid of the new organ fund raised £4-2-6d. Mr. R. C. Hayward played the piano and songs were rendered by Mrs. D. Christy Jnr. and Mr. Van der Gucht.”

16/4/1904. “A meeting of the Cricket Club took place on 7/4/04 at Traceys Farm. Mr. J. S. Freeman presided. The Accounts showed a balance in hand of £1-5-9. Sir Charles Cunliffe Smith was elected President. Rev. Thomas and Mr. Douglas Crossman, J.P. — Vice-Presidents. Mr. H. W. Millbank and Mr. G. Sawkins — Hon. Secretaries.”

16/1/1909. “Stanford Rivers Cricket Club Concert was held on January 6th. Duet by the Misses Pledge, songs by Messrs. King, H. Thomas, Sawkins, Eady, Bingley, Pennington, Miss Browne and Mrs. Johnston. Miss Green gave amusing recitations, as did Miss Pledge and Miss Millbank. A farce was performed, “Uncle John from Yorkshire”. Parts were taken by Misses L. and E. Pledge, Mr. F. W. Murton and Mr. H. W. Millbank. Mr. R. Bingley, the Chairman, thanked all those present. The receipts gave a balance of £8.”

1/5/1909. “The Annual General Meeting of the Stanford Rivers Cricket Club was held at Wayletts. Mr. Dan Wright presided. The Hon. Secy., Mr. F. W. Murton, announced a balance of £8. Sir Drummond Cunliffe Smith, Bart., was elected President.”

In 1913 the Committee of Management of the Coal & Clothing Club consisted of Sir D. Cunliffe Smith, Bart. (Chairman), the Rev. J. I. Thomas, Messrs. C. A. Millbank, R. Waltham, H. Palmer, H. W. Millbank, and G. A. Howgate (Hon. Secy.).

The following notes were made by me during an interesting chat with an elderly resident of the parish — Mr. Harry Witham of 4 London Road, Little End. This information was given me in May 1970. Mr. Witham was born in his present home on June 27th, 1899, and had five brothers and one sister. He and one brother are the only ones now living. His brother formerly worked for Mr. Hinman, but is now in an old people’s home.

“Harry” was taught at the local school by Mr. Howgate and his education ceased when he was 13. Until 1919 he worked for Mrs. Gilbert of Marden Ash and then on the local roads for about 45 years. Since his retirement he has undertaken odd jobs for Mr. Hinman and for the Landlord of the “White Bear”. He has known what it meant to work nine hours a day for six days a week for a tiny wage and had little time to enjoy life. He stated that in his opinion, the most wonderful benefits to the Village were the introduction of running water and of main drainage. He clearly remembers the fire at Stanford Hall in September 1907 and his father helping with the manual fire pump.

Interesting extracts from a letter received from the late Mr. Edwin Bass of 65, London Road, Stanford Rivers — dated 1971.

“I was born at Clatterford End, Toot Hill on October 25th, 1898 and was one of sixteen children. My parents had lived all their lives in the Parish and are buried in the churchyard. My father worked for Mr. Christy of Stanford Hall. Our cottage was lit by candles and oil lamps — water was drawn from a well with a bucket and chain. My parents were very proud to relate that I was the first child to be christened by Rev. Thomas after he became Rector. At school I was taught by Mr. Whitehouse and then by Mr. and Mrs. Howgate. Before going to school and after school, I worked for Mr. George Pledge of Blakes Farm. After leaving school, I also worked for Mr. Crouch of Freemans Farm. I remember the fire at Stanford Hall Farm (1907). I was among the lads who helped pump the horse-drawn Fire Engine — but owing to water shortage, about 20 stacks of wheat were destroyed. As a lad I played cricket at Wayletts. Mr. Johnston help us lads in every way and was very generous.”

The following notes were kindly given me by the organist of St. Margaret’s Church — Mrs. Alice Carter — who now resides at Greensted —

“Thank God for our peaceful countryside around this area! Early in this century there was an Ambulance Station in London Road, Little End. When the wooden hut (the Village Hall) was built at Toot Hill after the 1914-1918 War, a groom from “Blakes” came there to teach us teenagers dancing. Harold Sawkins (the son of a former proprietor of the now closed Toot Hill shop — who baked gorgeous bread) was one of the dancers. The hut was also used for Fancy Dress parties, Whist Drives, etc. and also for the Sunday School. Miss Connie Underwood, the daughter of the Master of the Workhouse, played the church organ and sometimes Miss Adelaide Thomas took over. I think I became the Organist in 1958 or 1959. My daughter, Mr. Armitage and Miss Gwen Reid, also sometimes took over this duty (Miss Reid’s father at one time kept the Toot Hill Shop). I can remember an old shepherd named Turner lived in a cottage at Clatterford End. Opposite him, at No. 5a, lived Mr. Thorogood who worked at Widows Farm. We used to collect our milk from that farm every day. Coal then cost us 2/6d. per cwt. There was a lake at the rear of the “White Bear” where we used to skate. The old Rev. Thomas had a pony and trap — but he also walked miles to visit his flock. Before Messrs. Piggott used the old workhouse it was used as a Tie and Trousers-press factory by a Mr. Heasman — he lived at 115, London Road, where Mr. and Mrs. Cherry now live.

In Mutton Row — going up used to be Rocketts Cottages, now the site of two new bungalows.

I remember the windmill which, before it was destroyed by fire, stood near Clunes House in Mill Lane.”

From correspondence with the elderly Mrs. Nesta Ferguson, I have extracted the following — (Mrs. Nesta Ferguson is the widow of the late Doctor Ferguson, who lived at Bridge Farm House and whose son, John, is now Professor and Dean of the Open University).

“In 1925-1929, Stanford Rivers and Toot Hill had largely independent existences. In 1925, Stanford Rivers had nothing to bring the women together — whereas Toot Hill had its W.I. Feeling the need, we formed our own and I became the President and Mrs. Howgate the Secretary.

I remember that at that time the little village shop and post office at Little End was kept by Mr. and Mrs. Hollingsworth — a most excellent, kindly and helpful couple. When the Congregational Chapel was destroyed by fire (1927), my small son, John, was taken to our windows at Bridge House to watch the flames. Not long before the fire, I had been invited to speak at a meeting there but was unable to do so and my husband took my place. I felt some regret that I had not myself spoken from the pulpit used by Livingstone! Our son started his education at an excellent Kindergarten and Preparatory School at Marden Ash and was taught by a Mrs. Sayer and her daughter.”

SUNDRY CHARITIES

Thomas Petit, who died prior to 1602, left 5/- a year for the poor and for “poor folk’s marriages” to the Parishes of Stanford Rivers and Greensted. It issued from lands in Stanford Rivers. In 1834, the money had not been paid for at least 23 years. The then owner of the land expressed willingness to pay the charge, but there is no further record of the charity being carried on.

William Green by his Will of 1554, devised a rent charge of £2 to 12 poor inhabitants of the parish. In 1786 it is recorded that it had not been paid since 1739.

Mary Rayner (of Greensted) by Will — proved in 1873 — left £400 for the upkeep of her family tomb and for the provision of clothing for the most deserving poor of Stanford Rivers. Although the primary Trust was void by the rule against perpetuities, small sums were spent on the tombstone at various times. In 1950, the income was £10.1s.2d., which, together with the previous year’s balance was enough to give 27 parishioners 10/- each for clothing.

Jessie Matilda Berkeley of Mere, Wilts., by Will, proved in 1930, left £500 in trust for the upkeep of the Graveyard of St. Margaret’s Church and for the benefit of the poor, provided that her family vault was kept in good repair (this condition was made void under the rule concerning perpetuities). The income in 1950 was £50-8-4, all of which was spent on the graveyard.